EP 23: Jasna Hodžić — Pure Motivation, Practicing Your Anti-Style, and Enduring Setbacks

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Jasna Hodžić is a part writer, part scientific researcher, and part badass rock climber. We talked about sending her first 5.14a, ‘To Bolt Or Not To Be’ at Smith Rock, about practicing her anti-style to climb a route called ‘Voodoo’ 5.14b, and about her struggles with a misdiagnosed finger injury, compartment syndrome, and RED-S.

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jasna-hodzic

Nuggets:

2:18 – Woodstoves, cooking while driving, and leaving an ice cube tray in the oven

5:46 – Hyper + cute boys, Mr. Buff Man, and getting into rock climbing

8:35 – Studying abroad in Spain in 2013, climbing at world-class areas, and finding an infectious climbing scene

11:38 – ‘To Bolt Or Not To Be’, the archetype of hard rock climbing, pure inspiration, and commuting from Seattle to try the route

18:35 – Advantages of top-roping, skin pain, and progression on To Bolt

22:23 – “Smedges”, going through six pairs of Muira VSs, punting at the 10th bolt, and bailing on her own birthday party

27:31 – Taping for warmups, warming up for To Bolt, and the Mike Doyle story

31:48 – Climbing ‘Peace’ first redpoint try, onsighting the last two bolts, and glacier polish

40:35 – Tick marks, visualizing, and focusing on the crux

43:07 – ‘Voodoo’ (Jasna’s first 5.14b), Equinox, and the jump start

48:34 – Jasna’s fake finger injury

59:28 – Taking a break from the gym and feeling stronger after a winter of rock climbing

1:03:13 – Mixing projects and quick ticks, trying hard routes, and anti-style

1:08:17 – Vertical climbing isn’t type 1 fun, steep climbing during quarantine, and climbing 14a in her anti-style

1:10:10 – Scuba diving on ‘Papa Legba’

1:14 14 – The foot story (compartment syndrome)

1:30:59 – Dealing with injuries and gratitude for health and health care

1:37:38 – Jasna’s experience with RED-S (formerly know as Female Athlete Triad)

1:45:43 – How Jasna has changed her diet post-RED-S, cottage cheese, getting DEXA scans, and other takeaways

1:53:53 – Eating more frequently, calories, calve muscles, and body fat

1:57:13 – Favorite books

2:01:37 – Photojournalism, Jasna’s R&I article, blogging, writing to process the gunk in your head, and the importance of publishing

2:07:11 – Dreams of making a living as a writer, and her PhD

2:10:20 – Gratitude for health and partnerships

2:13:23 – Climbing goals, being meticulous with climbing, and falling into projects

2:18:37 – Not on the Insta-Twitter

29 episodes