EP 25: Nathan Hadley — Circuit Sessions, Onsight Practice, and Establishing the First 5.14 at Index


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Nathan Hadley is a professional route setter and an all-around rock climber. We talked about completing the Canadian Alpine Trilogy, the benefits of training using bouldering circuits, how to practice onsighting skills in the climbing gym, establishing the first 5.14 at Index, WA, and the importance of following the psyche.

Show Notes:



2:41 – The Canadian Alpine Trilogy

7:23 – Prep for the Trilogy, bouldering base from route setting, and Nathan’s one-month approach for getting back in sport climbing shape

8:53 – Fontainblaue-style circuit training

12:36 – Why Nathan thinks circuits are more effective than route laps and 4x4s

15:08 – Example two-day per week PE program

18:21 – Low-end endurance

20:52 – Structure in the things that matter

22:15 – Competing at sport climbing nationals, onsighting in Turkey, and sending ‘Scarface’

29:38 – Nathan’s “relaxed approach”

33:39 – Switching modes, listening to your body, and following psyche

35:37 – Onsighting practice in the gym

40:57 – Warming up for hard onsights and entering the right mental space

44:40 – Intentions and guidelines, and why Nathan’s trip to Turkey was so successful

46:15 – FA of ‘En Passant’ (aka Ten Percent Direct)

54:27 – Route setting as prep for ‘En Passant’

55:39 – Outdoor bouldering and getting stronger by climbing bouldery routes and Index

57:05 – Leaving his mark at Index

1:00:00 – Chess and The Fun Triangle

1:02:01 – Route setting with volumes, volumes as tools, and creating a diversity of climbing styles in the gym

1:05:06 – Forerunning as training

1:07:31 – Climbing less, and learning from the experts who know bodies

1:09:26 – Grateful to be working

1:10:24 – ‘Vanishing Point’, looking for a new route on Dolomite Tower, and dreaming of a WA Trilogy

1:22:00 – Nathan’s website

38 episodes